Bugaboo Spire

Bugaboos, Snowpatch and Pigion spires

In 1916, Conrad Kain made his first ascent on the south ridge on this legendary spire, which is how the entire area received its name. These trips are based from the Kain Hut.
To climb 2 spires a 3 day trip or longer is best. First day driving in and hiking up to the hut,
peak accents day two and three and out the afternoon of day three.

Featuring the Kain Route and the NE Ridge route, the Bugaboo Spire is definitely the most popular in the Bugs.

South Peak 3204m North Peak 3197m

Possible Routes
  • Kain Route
    Kain Route, South Ridge

    The Kain Route was the first line of ascent on Bugaboo Spire back in 1916.
    The south peak is 3204m high and offers outstanding views of the surrounding spires and glaciers.

    Start at the top of Bugaboo/Snowpatch col.
    5.6 ridge and face, lots of 3rd and 4th class terrain
    10-14 hours return to hut.

  • Northeast Ridge route Bugaboo Spire
    Northeast Ridge route

    The Northeast Ridge is one of the 50 classic climbs of North America.
    The quality of the rock is superb and exposure is wild with great positions.
    Definitely one you won't want to miss.

    Bugaboo Spire, above the Kain hut and Crescent Glacier
    5.8 for short sections face climbing, some 5.6 crack.
    10-14 hours return to hut.


Above the Kain Hut and Crescent Glacier
Mid June to September
Client/Guide Ratio1 Day2 Day3 Day 4 Day5 Day

Fees are quoted per person and in Canadian funds.
Hut cost is $35.00 per person per night.
Food can be catered for $40.00 per person per night.
Any climbing gear needed can be provided and is included with the cost.