Mt Fay

Mt Fay's North Face, Valley of the Ten Peaks

Mt Fay 3234m.

This North Face offers a selection of 8 pitch snow and ice ascents as well as the 5.5 West Ridge Route.

These routes are best climbed from the Niel Colgan Hut or can be done in a single day push from Moraine Lake near Lake Louise.

The one day climbs from the valley floor are very big days 14-16 hours car to car.

We climb the Perren Route to get to the base of the route and the Colgan Hut.

This route has some 5.5 rock climbing, some glacier travel and takes about 6 hours
from Moraine Lake

This hut works well to base from for a 3-4 day trip.
This area offers a good variety of snow/ice routes and/or 4th class climbs on peaks all over 3020m.

Possible Routes
  • North Face Route, Mt Fay
    North Face Roth/Kallen Route

    The North Face/Kallen route is the most popular and best snow and ice route on Mt Fay.

    Moraine Lake, Valley of the Ten Peaks, Mt Fay
    Alpine grade 3, snow and ice to 50 degrees
    Full day return to car or 2 days with one night at Neil Colgan Hut

  • Mt Fay's West Ridge Route
    West Ridge

    This route offers 5 pitches of snow and ice climbing and a summit ridge traverse on 5.5 rock.

    Moraine Lake, Valley of the Ten Peaks
    Alpine Grade 3, moderate angled snow and ice, 5.5 rock climbing
    14-16 hours, or two days hut based.


Valley of the Ten Peaks, Moraine Lake
1 to 3 nights in the hut
June - Sept

Fees are guiding only and quoted per person per day, in Canadain funds.
Food can be catered for $40.00 per person per night.
Hut costs are $40.00 per person per night for ACC huts.
Parks Canada back country permit $9.80 per night per person.
Full or partial climbing gear package available, crampons, helmet, harness or tools.

Client/Guide Ratio1 Day2 Day3 Day