Mt Victoria 3464m

Mt Victoria South summit and East Face

At 11,365 ft Mt Victoria's South peak is the 22nd highest peak in the Rockies
with a well equipped and comfortable stone hut to base from at Abbott's Pass.

There are many variations and different options for routes on this peak including:

The classic South East Ridge Traverse to the south summit.

The West Face via the Huber Ledges route to the south summit.

The North Glacier route to the North peak summit.

Possible Routes
  • Mt Victorias North Glacier Route
    North Glacier Route

    1 Day Trip: The best one day snow and ice alpine climbing route in the Lake Louise area.

    We attempt the North Peak of Mt Victoria via the North Glacier route from Lake Louise.

    Lake Louise
    Alpine grade 3, moderate snow and ice, glacier travel
    One long day

  • Mt Victoria, South East Ridge Route
    South East Ridge

    2 Day trip: One of the best alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies.
    The SE Ridge route follows the spine of the Continental Divide and offers spectacular views of the Louise Group and many peaks over 11,000 feet.

    Lake O’Hara
    Alpine grade 3, snow and ice, easy rock climbing
    2 Day trip

  • West Face Route Mt Victoria, Banff National park
    West Face Route

    The West Face Route to the South summit of Victoria can be climbed in one day from Lake O'Hara

    Lake Louise, bus into Lake O'Hara
    Alpine grade 3, glacier travel, snow climbing, rock climbing to 5.3
    Two days min. Hut or camping based.


Mid July to September, Aug is the best month.
Client/Guide Ratio1 Day2 Day3 Day

Fees are quoted per person, in Canadian funds.
Hut or Hostel cost is $40.00 per person per night.
Food can be catered for $40.00 per person per night.
Parks Canada backcountry pass cost $9.80 per night per person.
Full or partial climbing gear package available, crampons, helmet, harness or tools.

Any other expenses like transportation, bus to Lake O'Hara, hut and food are not included with the price.