Northeast Ridge route

Northeast Ridge route Bugaboo Spire

The Northeast Ridge is one of the 50 classic climbs of North America.
The quality of the rock is superb and exposure is wild with great positions.
Definitely one you won't want to miss.

The route follows the ridge all the way and the climbing never really gets too difficult.

The first pitch is the hardest at 5.8, then hand and fist cracks at 5.6 for pitch 4 and 5.

The descent requires a long traverse of the summit ridge and then down the Kain route descent.

The route can take 12-14 hours return to hut moving at a good pace.


Bugaboo Spire, above the Kain hut and Crescent Glacier
5.8 for short sections face climbing, some 5.6 crack.
10-14 hours return to hut.